101 Tips
To Improve your Game
Written By,
Lyle Zikes
To see the new tip, please click to the HERE. Each previous tip can be seen here.
Enjoy!
Tip 1
Good timing requires the ball to be at the top of its swing arc at the completion of the next-to-last step.
Tip 2
The release should take place when the arm is perpendicular to the approach with the ball one to two inches from the ankle of the sliding foot.
Tip 3
The projection of the ball from the bowler's hand should send it out and down the lane, much like an airplane landing on a runway. The ball should neither bang into the foul line nor be lofted upward to produce a crash-landing farther down the lane.
Tip 4
For some, four steps is fine. For most, five is better. Fewer than four rushes the swing. More than five is excessive.
Tip 5
A custom fit should be just that. Don't take the easy way out by using another bowler's ball because the fit seems close. Have your hand measured by a professional ball driller who can provide you with a proper grip.
Tip 6
By all means, place your fingers in the ball first when setting up for a shot, followed by the thumb.
Tip 7
Place your thumb fully into the hole. Do not restrict pendulum-swing energy with a thumb-tip grip unless you're built like Arnold Schwarzenegger. On second thought, Arnold may be too muscle-bound to create any natural swing momentum anyway.
Tip 8
The stance is designed to ready the body for motion. A comfortable athletic set-up includes slightly flexed knees and an equally slight forward tilt from the back. Ball postion should be on the side of the swinging arm.
Tip 9
In general, faster footwork tempo calls for starting the ball from a low position below the waist. The more deliberate the tempo of the steps, the higher the ball should be positioned in the stance.
Tip 10
To enhance lift, turn and overall ball action, try one or both of the following: A. Spread the index finger away from the finger holes and place much of the weight of the ball on the base of that finger. B. Curl the pinky so the front of the knuckle contacts the ball.
Tip 11
Avoid knuckling. During the swing, control the ball with the inside edges of the fingers and thumb. In contrast, squeezing the ball will cause friction near the back knuckle of the thumb.
Tip 12
Use tape to monitor the hole sizes to compensate for normal swelling and shrinking of the thumb and fingers.
Tip 13
Avoid over-extending the pushaway. Such a move means starting the approach with a forward lurch, from which it will be hard to recover.
Tip 14
Seek to develop a loose, relaxed feeling. The pins can tell if your swing is tight is a quotation attributed to top bowlers of contrasting styles from the 1930's to the present.
Tip 15
Recognize the value of pendulum momentum. Gravity provides a natural swing impetus to the extent of feeling the ball is swinging itself. At least half of the swing's movement should be traced to this free energy source.
Tip 16
A hyper-extended elbow in the backswing-- caused by using a ball that is too heavy or trying to swing too fast-- puts the hand and fingers in a greatly weakened position to impart turn and lift on the ball.
Tip 17
Bending the elbow in the swing strengthens the hand position underneath the ball for imparting rotation, but also restricts pendulum-swinging energy. Those with enough strength to overcome the reduced natural swing momentum have a chance to benefit from a bent elbow swing, but it is not the only way to achieve more power.
Tip 18
The downward arc of the backswing should level off about knee-high or somewhat higher. A backswing passing below the knee of the near-side leg means the bowler is bent too far over from the back and/or excessively dipping the bowling-side shoulder.
Tip 19
Keep the backswing from veering away from the body. A towel placed under your arm should not fall during the backswing.
Tip 20
The downswing path moves on a straight line to the target and a straight or slightly in-to-out path in relation to the body. The biggest downswing no-no's are sidearming-- meaning a circuitous downswing motion-- and a pulled swing line wherein the arm proceeds from a position away from the body and moves across the body in the follow through.
Tip 21
Keep your head steady so the eyes have chance to maintain a clear, uninterrupted view of the target throughout the approach.
Tip 22
You don't have to hit what you are looking at, but know what you hit. That is a catchy way of telling you not to be overly occupied with hitting your target, but not to forget about it either.
Tip 23
Spot closer to the foul line to acheive earlier ball roll; spot farther down the lane to delay the ball's hook.
Tip 24
Know where your sliding foot is finishing, and know your normal laydown point in relation to the instep of the sliding foot; i.e.,7,8,or 9 boards.
Tip 25
Control the heads. A lane is 60 feet from the foul line to the headpin, but you can essentially reduce it to a 15-foot game by emphasizing a smooth laydown point and a long trajectory through the front part of the lane.
Tip 26
As a first option, try making parallel line adjustments such as two boards left with your feet and two boards left with your target if the ball is going through the nose from an outside angle. Granted, moves like these do not make mathematical or geometrical sense; but on today's conditions (crowns, blends and walls), they are often the easiest and most effective adjustments.
Tip 27
Whenever possible, shoot at the corner pins in practice before a league or tournament session to get a reading on how to play those shots.
Tip 28
Before any shot in competition or practice, give some thought to what you are trying to do. Careless shots are wasted shots even if the results are temporarily okay.
Tip 29
When under pressure, think of making a good shot, not a great one. Emphasizing perfect execution is not only asking too much of yourself in such a situation, it is not even necessary.
Tip 30
To get the feel of the ultimate hook ball, take a very light ball and insert only your fingertips. Release the ball with your hand cupped and accelerating in a manner to have it come off the inside of your palm. The ball should track high, and make a sudden, eye-popping snap hook.
Tip 31
Think drop and drive to encourage a deeper knee bend followed by an authoritative follow-through.
Tip 32
Isolate on release technique by taking a one-step approach. Stand near the foul line, push the ball into the swing and take one sliding step. Concentrate on the ball coming properly off the thumb as the finger provide lift.
Tip 33
Before throwing your first shot, stretch and warm up your bowling hand by gently swinging the ball and mimicking wrist action. When it comes time to bowl, the first shot should be no more than three-quarters speed.
Tip 34
"A common fault-- probably most witnessed among lower-average bowlers-- is moving the ball up instead of out in the pushaway. When asked why they developed that habit, most will say it seemed like a natural way to aim. "
Tip 35
"Recognize that the hand and arm execute separate functions in creating side-roll and hook. The arm follows through toward the target; the hand produces the counter clockwise (for righthanders) rotation. Resist the temptation to pull the swing line across the body because it will detract from the degree of side rotation the hand may apply."
Tip 36
"To flatten out a shot when playing a spare, bend your wrist backward- i.e., "break" your wrist- and think of releasing the ball with the thumb and finger coming out together. Otherwise, execute normally and maintain natural ball speed."
Tip 37
"If you have a general spare line for each pin of the back row, you can base any spare combination attempt off one of those lines."
Tip 38
"If needed, more ball speed can be generated by modestly lengthening the swing arc, or putting the ball into the swing a tad earlier to create a more rapid approach tempo."
Tip 39
"Recognize the contrast in stability versus momentum, and how both are needed at the release. Stability results when the braking action of the slide produces a balanced stop of the approach, while momentum is the amount of forward thrust the progression of steps contributes to the swing."
Tip 40
"Get the bowling-side hip and leg out of the way after the next-to-last step is taken, even if they must be "thrown" clear in the downswing. You cannot afford to have the swing veer around your body."
Tip 41
"Know the oiling and stripping schedule of the center to anticipate lane condition changes. A lane that is freshly cleaned and oiled represents a condition that is the most volatile and will require quick and frequent adjustments as the oil carries down the lane."
Tip 42
"A straighter shot beneficial for shooting spares except when double wood is involved, such as the 3-9-10 and 2-8 combinations. Play those shots to hook into the outside of the lead pin going toward the back pin."
Tip 43
"As a basic principle, a player who can generate significant ball action qualities without a wrist aid is better off than the player who needs the device to achieve the same amount of power. Nothing beats natural technique. Nevertheless, such a device is beneficial, if needed, to keep the wrist from breaking back in the swing and, in some cases, help the hand inpart side-roll."
Tip 44
"Keep your equipment priorities clear. The value of a bowling ball to your game depends on, in order: 1. The fit; 2. The gross weight; 3. The surface properties of the shell; 4. The interior design and balance characteristics."
Tip 45
"Polish the ball in a ball polishing machine to reduce the amount it will hook. Rough up the surface with a Scotch Brite pad or light sandpaper to increase its grabbing and hooking action. "
Tip 46
"To correct late or early timing, adjust the movement of the pushaway in connection with the key step (the second in the 5-step approach; first in the 4-step approach). Start the ball sooner if it is not achieving its swing apex as the last step begins, or delay the pushaway if the swing "floats"; i.e., pauses to allow the feet to catch up."
Tip 47
"As an alternate means of correcting late timing, lengthen the step following the key step (third in a 5-step approach; second in a 4-step approach) to give the ball more time to travel its full swing arc."
Tip 48
"Frequent practice periods of 30-60 minutes are more productive than occasional marathon practice sessions."
Tip 49
"In extended tournament formats, focus on maximizing your long-term total by making line adjustments, equipment changes, and mechanical adaptions in attempting to find a high-scoring groove. In a one game match, simply play your highest percentage shot at the moment without fishing for something better."
Tip 50
"When experienced bowlers make significant timing changes, their first efforts invariably feel awkward. It takes at least two-probably more- practice sessions before the change becomes ingrained enough to concentrate on anything else."
Tip 51
"A cranking or "urethane" release is best described as hitting the ball off the wrist. A stroking release is a fluid and less violent motion. On today's conditions, raw crankers must strive to smooth out their release action, while pure strokers must seek to add power to their release motion."
Tip 52
"To help get the feel of the desired upward acceleration of the hand at the release, toss your ball in the air to a friend a few feet away while simulating the way you want the ball to exit your hand. Then try to incorporate that feel as you "feed" the ball into the lane."
Tip 53
"To encourage a level shoulder position through the backswing, keep the opposite arm extended away from the body, but down at about waist level. Letting the opposite arm extend to shoulder level or higher almost automatically is accompanied by dipping the bowling shoulder during the swing."
Tip 54
"Distinguish between good lift and hit as opposed to unproductive loft. Effective lift is a process in which the fingers and hand resist the downward movement of the ball. The momentum of this lifting and hitting action carries the ball over the foul line on a level plane rather than lofted on an upward trajectory."
Tip 55
"Attempt to keep the opposite arm steady as it counter balances the weight of the swinging ball. Correct any tendency of your opposite arm to flail back and forth or up and down."
Tip 56
"When changing from four to five steps, think of the first step as a comfortable trigger action before setting the ball into motion without hesitation as that initial step is completed."
Tip 57
"When should bowlers change from a conventional grip to a fingertip? Answer: After they have developed the ability to apply some turn and lift to the ball and are willing to bowl at least six games a week to learn the feel and better control of a new grip which is harder to handle yet much more power-producing."
Tip 58
"Strive to feel you are driving your hand through the back of the ball at the release. It is analagous to hitting a baseball on the sweet spot of the bat and leaves the player feeling, "I got all of that"."
Tip 59
"Seek to feel that the ball is part of the hand rather than a foreign object you are clinging to in the swing and flinging at the release. Doing so requires a good ball fit, a firm hand position and good swing mechanics."
Tip 60
"Avoid overkicking the trailing leg as the release occurs. An overactive trailing leg often causes the body to "spin out," moving the sliding foot away from the target. If this is a problem, concentrate on keeping the trailing leg on the ground as you release and follow through."
Tip 61
"Learn the correlation of the dots on the approach to the rangefinder arrows, which are located approximately 15 feet past the foul line. To practice execution skills, know which board you want to cross at the arrows. Be alert to how closely you repeat shots in comparison to that line."
Tip 62
"In some cases, the small dots located six feet past the foul line may be useful for targeting. These dots do not align with the approach dots or rangefinders. Instead, they are located on boards 3,5,8,11, and 14 from both the left and right sides of the lane."
Tip 63
"Know your ball track, which is identified by the visible oil ring on the ball when it returns after a shot. Note any movement of the track in relation to the thumb and finger holes. While there is no perfect manner for the ball to track, the full-roller (with the ball rolling between the thumb and finger holes) and the spinning versions (with the ball tracking more than three inches from the thumb and fingers) are normally quite limiting in power."
Tip 64
"To change from a full-roller to a track outside the thumb hole, exaggerate the feeling of having the hand open at the top of the swing--perhaps with the thumb at the 2 or 3 o'clock position."
Tip 65
"Guard against hitting the ball early; i.e., exhausting the hand's capabilities before the ball has achieved optimum release position. The hitting action should not occur until the ball is alongside the sliding ankle, about ready to crash into the foul line if the hand does not make an accelerated thrust."
Tip 66
"Rubber finger inserts are popular among bowlers using a fingertip grip because they can afford the extra adhesive quality against the pads of the fingers, thus enhancing lift. One drawback: the size of the holes cannot be easily monitered with tape or beveling-- you have to replace the grip of fit becomes a problem."
Tip 67
"Using thumb grips and inserts allows the thumb to be in contact with a consistant texture from one ball to another, thereby eliminating a frequent concern among bowlers who change balls regularly."
Tip 68
"Practice achieving a "frozen at the line" position by holding your follow-through and final balancing postition until the ball hits the pins. This effort helps discipline your ability to stay balanced. In competition, though, don't be too obsessed with perfect form."
Tip 69
"Do not begin the approach with a jolt. The first movement from the stationary position in the stance should be easy, uncomplicated and simple to repeat. A small, fairly slow first step suits the purpose."
Tip 70
"After the first step, make the ensuing tempo of the steps even--- a consistent rhythmic beat. Whether the tempo is fairly fast or relatively slow, let it proceed without any hesitations, skips or spurts."
Tip 71
"The incline of the steps accommodates a medium-to-brisk walking pace with the heel of the shoe contacting the approach first on each step until the slide. A rushed approach is evidenced by steps taken with the toe hitting the ground first as if in a jog."
Tip 72
"Each step should be directed toward the target and any step that noticeably veers away from the target needs attention. Even bowlers with outstanding mechanics may drift a couple of boards from start to finish, but their pattern is always the same."
Tip 73
"As a general guideline, the steps should lengthen as the approach proceeds; and the last step, which incorporates the slide, travels the farthest. A sometimes effective technique is to make a short pivot (next-to-last) step to set up a harder driving slide."
Tip 74
"Shuffling a step or steps instead of lifting the foot off the approach is accepted technique. A high stepping gait, though, is for military parades and marching bands, not bowlers."
Tip 75
"Take normal precautions with your bowling shoes, particularly the sole of your sliding shoe. Don't leave the bowling area unless you have to; and if you do, check to see if any water or other substance has been picked up by the shoe. Test the approach before throwing our first ball to get a feel for its sliding characteristics."
Tip 76
"If you like to bowl, you'll probably be eager for your turn to come and will be ready when it does. Set an example by meeting the bowler ahead of you as he or she steps off the approach at the completion of a frame, and encourage others to do the same.
Tip 77
"A couple rules of lane courtesy too often not fully understood: 1. If you're waiting for someone to bowl on an adjoining lane, stand all the way off the approach, not on the back of it. 2. Do not push the re-rack button on your lane while a bowler on an adjoining lane is in mid-approach."
Tip 78
"If you happen to leave an 8-10 split (7-9 for lefties) on what you feel you was a decently released shot, do not stomp, curse, despair and plan a drastic adjustment in your game. Instead, think of trying to leave the same split in the next frame.
P.S - If you do leave the same split, you have permission to do all the aforementioned. "
Tip 79
"Remember there are several variables that determine the hitting impact and strike potential of a ball as it enters a pocket, including the mass and speed of the ball, its angle of entry, and the sum of its rotational characteristics. Don't fall into a trap of thinking more hook always equates proportionately to stonger impact."
Tip 80
"To slow down ball speed, don't attempt to abnormally inhibit swing speed. Instead, think of reducing the overall exertion and effort of your approach by 20 percent."
Tip 81
"For those who finish their approach more than a foot behind the foul line, the correction requires more than simply moving up in the stance. For most, it takes concerted practice to train the eyes and body to accept where one should finish in relation to the foul line. One practice method is to overcompensate and intentionally foul for several shots in a row before settling for a preferred finishing position three to nine inches from the foul line."
Tip 82
"A "chicken-wing" follow-through is one in which the elbow bends outside the swing line and the forearm points inside the target. It is evidence of the weak release in which the ball is inappropriately turned and pulled, out of fear it will otherwise miss the headpin."
Tip 83
"A "fanned" follow-through in which the arm flares or circles to the right (fr righthanders) is usually the result of strong release technique and is a type of finish some bowlers use effectively. Nevertheless, the truest, indication of a fundamentally sound and balance release is a follow-through that heads straight down the target line and up to the ceiling."
Tip 84
"Without producing a chicken-wing effect, let the elbow bend in the follow-through. If the momentum of the follow-through doesn't cause the elbow to bend, the release action and hand acceleration through the ball have been too passive."
Tip 85
"Nobody's game remains at its sharpest forever. Reaching prime performance level is cyclical in nature along the lines of : 1. looking for a key that will enhance performance; 2. finding it; 3. keeping it; 4. losing it and starting the process all over again."
Tip 86
"Continuously work on the mechanics of your game to make your approach as smooth and fluid as possible, but don't overdo it to the point you are playing purely for form. An effort to simply display a beautiful style ignores the fact that throwing an accurate and powerful ball is a strenuous athletic activity."
Tip 87
"Moving your starting position up or back on the approach will have an effect on your game that is not entirely predictable. It's one of those things to try when you're in a slump and other adjustments aren't quite working. Usually, if your timing feels out of synch, move up several inches; if you feel you need to generate more steam in the approach and on the ball, move back the same amount."
Tip 88
"Throw practice shots as if each ball were worth $20,000. Then, when you are under pressure, throw big money balls as if they were practice."
Tip 89
"While it's fine to show your excitement and display body english, know when to keep your exuberance in check. Don't get so animated that your heart rate and respiratory system won't have a chance to settle down before it's time to throw another shot."
Tip 90
"Taking one or two controlled deep breaths is a method used by many athletes as a calming measure when the pressure is mounting and the adrenaline is pumping."
Tip 91
"Even in a highly nervous state, you still have a good chance to make an effective shot if you remember to simply keep your form and pay special attention to focusing on your target."
